Salvadoran town deeply rooted in DC unfazed by US politics

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“We all go, why not?” said Mauricio Castellon, calling out in English to a passing friend, “What’s up, dude?”

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Castellon lived most of his life in the U.S. but was recently deported after an arrest. Deportations used to be an embarrassment, but have become the norm. Those who can, go north again.

The hero statue in their main plaza, Parque Los Emigrantes (The Immigrants Park), features a young man with a backpack, heading to the U.S.

A large banner still hanging in front of City Hall this week greeted the mayor of Washington, D.C.: “Muriel Bowser Welcome To Intipuca City The Place To Be!!!” She visited earlier this month, and promised to return. After all, some 5,000 of the town’s 12,000 residents live in D.C., including the mayor’s hairdresser.

“Salvadorans have played an important role in building the diverse, inclusive, and thriving Washington, D.C., that we live in today,” she said in a statement.

While many Salvadoran communities are torn by violence, Intipuca is calm and safe.

On a recent visit, residents said they don’t leave to flee gang violence, a common reason many urban Salvadorans try to immigrate. Instead, they’re seeking upward mobility. In El Salvador, a labourer might earn $5 a day. In Washington, the minimum wage is $13.25 per hour. Those wages, sent back to this Central American community, translate into health care and education, but primarily into housing: Two-story homes with plumbing, electricity, tiled floors and gardens are common here, funded by money earned in the U.S.

“Oh we love it here. It’s tranquil, calm, near the beach,” said Manuel Arbaiza, 58, who first went to the U.S. with an uncle when he was 16. He’s a U.S. citizen, along with his wife and daughters, and owns two beauty salons and a Latino market in the D.C. area. His home is in Silver Spring, Maryland, but the family keeps a house in Intipuca, which they’re renovating to live in during cold winter months, and where they eventually plan to retire.

Like many here, he shrugs off President Donald Trump’s reported comments that El Salvador, along with Haiti and places in Africa are “shithole countries,” nor his rhetoric about Central Americans being filled with dangerous gang members.

“There’s nothing we can do about it,” said Arbaiza. “He says what he wants. We just keep on working hard, doing what we do.”

Almost a third of Salvadorans currently live in the U.S., more than 2 million from a country of 6.3 million, a diaspora fueled by civil war, natural disasters and grinding poverty. Nationwide, Salvadorans receive $4 billion a year in U.S. remittances, about 15 per cent of their country’s GDP.

Western Union in Intipuca is a busy place. Relatives settled in the U.S. support loved ones in El Salvador. The entire country only uses U.S. currency; the switch started here first, in 2001.

Blanca Lydia Galindo was at the office when the doors opened on Saturday, ready to collect remittances from her adult daughters in D.C.

She doesn’t feel up for the journey, but misses her children.

“If we can, we go,” she said.

Martha Mendoza, The Associated Press