PARIS — High-collared, fluid silhouettes teeming with detail: That’s the recipe at Chloe, which showcased its latest winter collection at Paris Fashion Week Thursday.
Some highlights of the fall-winter 2019 collections on display:
CHLOE
Round shoulders were a key theme this season, alongside a diaphanous, tubular sleeve that subtly referenced the house’s 70s DNA.
Designer Natacha Ramsay-Levi produced a diverse and saleable collection with rich design pickings — but failed to really light a spark.
Floral prints created a visual kinesis, an effect accentuated by ethnic motifs and tribal jewelry.
But pervading the 55 looks displayed in the morning show at Paris’ Maison de Radio was a rather low-energy, grounded and sensible feel.
High collars and statement on-trend lapels did away with the bust, intentionally un-sexily, and the footwear consisted of sturdy, equestrian-inspired boots with square heels.
Still, there were some beautiful individual garments, such as an off-white knit sweater with sleeves attached by gold buttons at the elbow that captured a “sportswear meets aristocrat” vibe.
Illustrating the frenetic pace of fashion week show schedules, guests rushed out so quickly at the end of the display that Ramsay-Levi was blocked from taking a bow in one of the main runway halls. She just smiled and laughed.
___
CHLOE’S FAREWELL POSTCARDS TO LAGERFELD
Couturier Karl Lagerfeld, who died earlier this month, exerted a giant influence on the global fashion industry. Designers including Dior’s Maria Grazia Chiuri have peppered their collection notes with poignant tributes this week.
On Thursday, it was Chloe’s turn to bid farewell to Lagerfeld, who was the house’s longtime creative director from the ’70s — a post that was somewhat overshadowed by his more famous tenure at Chanel.
Chloe praised the German-born designer’s “incalculable genius” over 25 years with the house.
A wad of postcards was placed on each guest’s seat, remembering Lagerfeld’s most important moments with the brand in his own words.
“I love dresses straight out of fairy tales — that are the colour of the moon; that are as bright as the sun,” one read.
___
ARORA MAKES A STATEMENT
Manish Arora’s show opened with aplomb.
A hooded model with patchy orange makeup and a bejeweled visor strutted out in a multicolour striped sweater emblazoned with “Finally Normal People.”
It set an ironic tone for the exuberant Indian designer’s show. Arora, who went in a more sophisticated direction last season, settled back this fall-winter in his tried-and-tested exaggerated styles.
It was punk-meets-Bollywood for many of the 34 ensembles in eye-popping colour.
There were pieced together fleeces, fringing, horned and Mohican-style headdresses, leopard-print hoods, sparkly leggings and dresses with diverse silhouettes.
The sheer scale of the excess made this collection somehow work.
___
VON FURSTENBERG ATTENDS STATUE OF LIBERTY MUSEUM EVENT
On Wednesday night, the fashion industry gathered at the Paris residence of Jamie D. McCourt, the U.S. Ambassador to France, to kick off celebrations for the upcoming Statue of Liberty Museum in New York.
American designer Diane von Furstenberg, who reportedly raised some $100 million for the museum, was a guest of honour during the red carpet toast that included models Karlie Kloss and Natalia Vodianova as well as U.S. Vogue Editor Anna Wintour.
Paris has a special significance for the Statue of Liberty, as the iconic monument was originally a gift from the people of France to the people of the United States in 1886 and was designed by French sculptor Frederic Auguste Bartholdi.
___
Thomas Adamson is at Twitter.com/ThomasAdamson_K
Thomas Adamson, The Associated Press
